Unexpected ways with vine fruit include serving them with tarragon or roasting them with goat’s cheese There is a vine growing outside our front window, and by now it is heavy with dusky little wine grapes. We have spent a morning snipping two big baskets of small, tart bunches from it, some of which I have used to make a sort of grape paste to eat with cheese. The rest we’ve eaten roasted with fennel seeds to top soft cheese on toast, or in this salad inspired by one I ate at a dinner cooked in celebration of my friend Anja Dunk’s new book. Both reminded me of how pleasurable grapes can be when they are eaten in a savoury context.
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